A taste of Luberon at "Le Pavillon de Galon" B&B

We've been silent the past weeks as we are working hard on our next professional adventure. But do not panic ! ;-) We still do have time for long week-ends and will continue to post our "Art de vivre" findings on a regular basis.

Just back from a short stay in "Le Pavillon de Galon" B&B, i just could not resist sharing this experience with you. The "pavillon" is located in the little village of Cucuron, South Luberon, Provence. We decided to take the TGV train from Paris to Avignon (2h40mn). We then rented a car ( i do recommend Sixt which i booked through their iphone app ) and thanks to my great tomtom app we reached Cucuron after an hour of relaxed driving.

The 18th century mansion - Roman Pool

The little village of Cucuron is nice and is a central spot to discover Luberon. "Le pavillon de galon" is located at the exit of the village along a small road. A "remarkable" garden will welcome you entering this multi acres domain, bought 12 years ago by Bibi and Guy, a parisian couple. 

Apart from an amazing restoration of the 18th century main house, they planted more then 10.000 fruit trees along the years. They also have a decent number of olive and truffle trees, as well as a small kitchen garden. All they will serve you for breakfast is home made except the fresh goat cheese coming from a neighbor. Be ready to re-discover the forgotten and genuine taste of apricot and fig. They even produce their wine called "Hocus Pocus".

10.000 fruit trees we did say !

Fresh goat cheese from the neighbor at breakfast

You got the point ! This place is designed by and for "Epicureans". The owners even propose cooking and wine tasting classes mainly during the summer. In their own wonderful kitchen, the largest room of the house !

There is also a very nice minimalistic pool to refresh, as well as a couple of fountains and basins dating from the roman empire. So relax and feel the history, you're in good hands at Pavillon de Galon.

For eating, wether at lunch or dinner time, we do recommend "La Closerie" in the very charming village of Ansouis, ran by Delphine and Olivier Alemany. Book long in advance for dinner at +33(0)490099054. We went for lunch and opted for the 23€ menu which was simply exceptional. In particular the starter "Cauliflower soup with local black truffle". "Un sans faute" as we like to say in French. They also strongly recommend "La bartavelle" restaurant in Goult, 40 mn away from Cucuron. Should you try that one, let us have your feedback at bsimeray@gmail.com

La Closerie - Ansouis - Luberon

Cauliflower Cream - thin chips - black truffle

In Cucuron you will also find a one star michelin called "La petite maison", ran by chef Eric Sapet. We had diner there which i would qualify just average. Completely overrated and overpriced. Unless they had a bad day that night ! Which can always happen.

All in all another long week end we will keep for long in our memories. We wish you to discover this wonderful region and experience the flavours of Luberon.

Hasta pronto !
Benoît

Folegandros - Cyclades - Greece

In our permanent search of unspoilt places, we decided mid August to discover further the Cycladic islands, which we already visited a couple of times the past years. In such a popular destination as the Greek islands, one could say this is an illusion. Or a lost battle. 

The very good news is that it's NOT ! You can still find very well preserved places. Authentic villages. And local people still living like centuries ago. 

The first one we would like to share with you is the very small island of Folegandros. Various options to reach the unique harbor called Karavostasis :

1. You fly to athens and then take a boat from Piraeus port. ( Count on a minimum of 4 hours by speedboat and the double with regular ). You can check timelines and book tickets here.
2. You fly to Santorini ( direct flights from most European capitals ) and then take a fast boat from there ( 1 hour cruise with seajet )

In terms of lodging, you can wether stay at the port or at the main town called Chora up in the hill. We did stay at the port in a boutique hotel called Anemi for which a dedicated post will follow. 

Pool at Anemi hotel - Folegandros

Another 2 great lodging options we did visit and recommend are located in Chora ( old white washed village overlooking the Aegan and a great spot to admire sunset ) :

• Anemomilos apartments
• Themonies luxury suites

Wether you stay at the port or in Chora, you'll be just 10mn away by scooter to reach the beautiful beach of Agkali. From there you have a few trails to reach some other small ones. Or you can take small boats leaving every other hour dropping you along the south Coast should you look for empty spots.

Agkali beach - Folegandros

In agkali beach you have several options for lunch or dinner. We tested one and quality was very average. We would recommend you to drive 10mn to the little village of Anomeria and stop by the 3rd "Taverna" when on the main road. We just can't remember the name of this family owned restaurant. But it's damn easy to find. We've had lunch there a couple of times. They exclusively serve products from the island. All is fresh and delicious. Count on approximately 15€ per head wine included.

Greek salad with local cheese from Folegandros

Folegandros, just like most of the other cycladic islands, has got churches at almost every corners ! They are all extremely well preserved and maintained. They absorb and captivate. We particularly recommend you to walk up from Chora to the top of the hill church. An hour before sunset. Just feel the peaceful atmosphere, breathe and dream ! 

White washed trail - Church up from Chora - Folegandros

Mi Amor

Magic sunset - View to Chora and Aegan - Folegandros

I hope this island will bring you the peace of mind and happiness we felt. Or at least a parenthesis of it in the everyday life we are all up to. Next stop is Sifnos. So stay tuned and keep on sending your comments or sharing your own experiences.

"Bedandbruges" lovely B&B in the charming Bruges

We're just back from a long weekend in Bruges, Belgium. The best way to reach this UNESCO protected town is with no doubt by train. From Paris it took us around 2H30 mn and you can easily book your tickets on SNCB network. I will not here detail how beautiful and charming bruges is. You will find that on so many other blogs or websites. But it is indeed very true and a stop there when visiting Europe is a must.

You will find dozens of boutique hotels, luxury ones or bead & breakfast. We did stay at Bedandbruges , a lovely B&B ran by Louise and Francis Hardy. Should you go there, stay in "La tour" which is a medieval tower completely restored in 2009. You will enjoy the entire place for you ( 2 people ) at a bargain of 95 € per night breakfast included. The owners do also offer to swap their personal home and that could be an option for large families and a week stay.

"La tour" at Bedandbruges

Peaceful Bruges

This B&B is situated slightly off the touristic heart of the city and you will need a 10mn walk to join the most visited monuments. Which for us was a plus as we could stay out of the crowd. Another possibility is to rent a bike at around 10€/day as this is the perfect way to discover the city and its surroundings. We would even suggest you to bike along the canal from Bruges to Damme ( 7km away, a lovely medieval village ) and then to Sluis ( Holland, 18km from bruges ). You will need around 3H back and forth. We'd suggest to stop for lunch at Damme which offer various excellent options. We personally ate at "Restaurant ZuidKant" whom the chef has been working quite some time with the famous Thierry Marx chef in Cordeillan-bages.

"ZuidKant" restaurant terrace

Langoustines marinées, crème d'avocat et fines herbes

Cappuccino et ravioli de Homard, parmesan et huile de basilic

One of the best and most creative cuisine we've experienced lately. By far above most of the 1 or 2 star michelin restaurants we were lucky to taste in France those past years. Count on 50€/person with 1 glass of wine. Another option when in Damme is to eat at "De Bonheur" which has been indicated to us by several locals. The next day we went to have lunch at the Refter which is ran by the son of the nextdoor 3 star michelin "De Karmeliet". Should you have the choice, eat in the patio. We ate twice there for around 40€/person. Excellent products in general, succulent fish. I personally recommend the fish soup which beats easily many of the ones i could taste in sunny southern France.

La carte, Refter Bistro

Soupe de poisson et sa rouille

Velouté d'asperges, crème de brocolis

The kitchen , Refter Bistro

We also had excellent dinner at Rock Fort ( likely to be rated soon 1 star michelin ). Really amazing quality and very good and affordable wine list. But quite disappointed by the atmosphere ( we were at the bar, not in the main dining area ) and more problematic by the time we had to wait between each plate ( around 30mn ).

All in all we spent a wonderful time and discovered new flavors and tastes, met passionate and friendly people. Without a doubt, the belgian gastronomy is about to play a major role and taking over its French neighbour ( if not already the case ).

Some other places where to SLEEP : B&B Côté canal and B&B number 11

Enjoy bruges !

Lagacio Mountain Resort - San cassiano in Badia

What a trip ! After a couple of days spent in Verona ( a post on that city will soon follow ), we headed 200 km North to the Dolomites region. In san cassiano in badia to be precise. The first excellent surprise was the hotel we picked up called Lagacio Mountain resort, recently opened in December 2009. They indeed do not offer rooms as a typical hotel but apartments. The smallest being 42sqm. We opted for the 47sqm one. Room 602 exactly. 

Bar at Lagacio

View from room 602 terrace

Their website is perfectly designed and really does reflect accurately the spirit and the architecture of the place. What i can add after 6 days spent there is that the staff is extremely well prepared and very friendly. Always with an "anything is possible" approach. The apartments do mix modernity and Alpine standards perfectly. The breakfast is amazing, serving exclusively products from the BIO farms around. The spa and massages ( from Evelyne ) are also of very high standard and affordable ( 65€ an hour ). Within the resort you will find a top end bike shop and rental, which turns into ski/snowboard from November onwards. This is very convenient and quite cheap actually. We've paid 23€ for the entire day for an excellent mountain bike + safety equipment.

1 hour walk up in the mountain from San Cassiano

Lagacio is situated at the very heart of the beautiful village of San Cassiano. And is a great base for hiking, cycling or riding your car or bike. However you will decide to move yourself, you will be amazed by the majesty of the Alta Badia and Dolomites region. All in all a place and destination that we cannot recommend enough to escape the brutality of our world sometimes.

Just breath the fresh air and relax. 

Hotel Ravesi - Malfa - Eolian islands

We've seen many places in Southern Europe the past years. But this one is likely to be our best discovery so far. The Eolian islands are located North-East of Sicily. Approximately 2 hours cruise from Milazzo harbour. The archipel is composed of 7 islands. All being wether former volcanos or still very active ones. The most famous being Stromboli. 

We opted for Salina island. The pictures will tell more then hundred words. But here is a non exhaustive list of adjectives i would use to describe it : suprising, impressive, wild, generous, authentic, beautiful, unknown, preserved, different.

We ended in a boutique hotel named "Ravesi" in Malfa, a small village in the Northern Part of Salina. Also one of our best stay so far. The owner, Carolina, will welcome you very warmly. She is also personally cooking both breakfast and lunch. Do not expect any gastronomy there ! But we promiss you will eat fresh, simple and enjoy ! At the reception desk is Giuliana. She is absolutely perfect and will make sure your experience in Ravesi remains unforgetable. 

Book in advance as Ravesi does only propose few rooms. The one we had and the others we've seen are very nice. Recently remodeled with simple furniture. Most have sea view. From the terrace you will enjoy clear view on the islands of Panarea and Stromboli.

How to get there : by speed ferry's from Milazzo harbour. Ustica line is one of the company's which will bring you there in around 2H for 17€/person.

Where to eat : by far the best restaurant is Portobello which is located in Santa Maria, the main island's harbour. 7KM's away from Malfa. The fish and sea food are simply amazing as they all come from around the island. Rather expensive at around 50€ per person. But worth especially at night on the terrace. Some other options in Malfa but nothing that spectacular worth more lines. Ah yes ! Avoid the restaurant of the hotel Signum which is clearly over rated and clearly targeting the few VIP's visiting the island.

We do have many other tips for you on what to do and see when in Salina. Just email us and we will help the best we can.

Enjoy the Eolian islands !

Villa Carlotta - Boutique Hotel in Taormina

We've picked up this hotel after having read many good reviews about it. After 5 nights spent there in various rooms we can confirm this is likely to be the best choice. Let me give you a couple of good reasons  :

• the location is just perfect : 5mn walk up to the historical part of Taormina, 15mn down to Isola Bella beach ( worth out of peak season ).
• the staff is very friendly and helpful. A special mention to Tea from the reception desk and Maria who works at the roof terrace restaurant.

• the rooms have been redesigned 2 years ago. They are quite large and with very good taste. Do not spend your money in  a Junior suite. Better book a deluxe room with clear sea view. The 202 and 204 are just very nice. You'll pay around 200 to 270€ per night breakfast & taxes included.
• the roof top terrace is spectacular with amazing view on the sea and the Etna 

• the breakfast is homemade 100% and offers a very wide range. Excellent products.
• We've had dinner twice at the hotel and were very happy with local specialties of the day. Cheap.

All details can be found on their website http://www.hotelvillacarlottataormina.com/

A post is following soon with restaurant recommendation.

A real boutique hotel in Saint Germain des près

We did discover the hotel "Saint Vincent" close to where we live last year as we were looking for rooms where our wedding guests could stay. The hotel is situated in the very heart of Saint Germain des prés while being on a very charming and quiet road. Which is not that common in that district. So do not fear to book a room on the street side. The rooms are very well decorated and you will be able to enjoy in most of them very high ceiling, except on the 3rd floor which is just below the roof. Those latter will indeed offer you a small balcony. One main advice : book a couple of months in advance whatever the period. ( Small capacity + High demand ) * great location = Fully booked. 

They increased pricing last year but at 220/250€, this is an excellent choice you will not regret. Next door you will find their sister hotel "Saint thomas d'Aquin" which is also a very good choice for around 150€ ( on promotion at 129€ for this summer ).

I will dedicate my next post to eating out in Saint Germain des près. So stay tuned and enjoy that magical place for those visiting Paris soon.